TIDBTW Guest: Julia S. Riedel, Textile Artist
Introducing a fun new series of peoples‘ wardrobes and things they (don‘t) buy and why!
Good morning dear TIDBTW readers, it has been a while! And I did miss you. I’m back from France and other than some existential thoughts that I will elaborate on in the next edit, I got you a special souvenir: “TIDBTW Guest” is my new series of people whose sense and approach on fashion I admire. In each interview they will share a bit of their personal style journey and thoughts on things (not) to buy. Because we’re all in it together.
Quite literally, as my first interview partner, Julia S. Riedel, a wonderful textile artist from Berlin, is also a dear friend. She came to visit us in Provence where we chatted about this challenge and clothes we dream of, and she gave me a very honest evaluation of a Phoebe Philo bag that I have my eyes on. Now, that’s the kind of friend you want in your life!
I first met Julia at a photoshoot and was immediately drawn to her signature look; her air of both elegance and easiness in terms of her outfits is hard to miss. This is how you will find her work as well – Julia’s fields are probably the most graceful yet playful curtains you could imagine. As she works exclusively with deadstock, the most original ones as well. I now have three of her Tüten, simple everyday bags reusing refined textiles, that fit everything from small blankets to fresh asparagus if you will:
One of my favorite memories from our shared holiday is following Julia’s instinct on finding vintage fabrics through the quaint villages of Southern France. It ultimately led us to La Grande Recyclerie, pretty much secondhand heaven and easily la grande désastre in my case.
I will report more on the butterfly effect of the discovery of this place in the next weeks, but for now: what a treat to see a beloved place through your friends’ eyes, see what they see, how they open up the neighborhood, explore and show you something new. A true gift. I hope you find a similar joy in our following conversation. xoxo
TIDBTW Guest: Julia S. Riedel, Textile Artist
Things I didn’t buy this week: Dear Julia, could you please introduce yourself - who are you and what are you doing?
Julia S. Riedel: Hi :) I’m Julia, sitting on the train back to Berlin after a great week of soaking up Provençal sun, eating the last lupines from the market in Salernes while answering this questionnaire.
Born, raised and trained in Northrhine-Westphalia, I have lived and worked in Berlin for 12 years. I am the Store Manager of the A Kind of Guise store in Berlin and a designer working with dead stock and leftover fabrics. I create textile objects using fabric as my starting point. Working with different patchwork techniques, like Korean bojagi, allows me to repurpose even the smallest textile scraps to create objects from curtains to bolsters and bags or cushions.
TIDBTW: Can you recall why you started working with textile objects and specifically with leftover fabrics?
JSR: I’ve always been interested in sustainability and creating things that last; to be and to work in a way that is not wasteful and harmful to the environment or depleting natural or human resources, respecting everything and everyone who’s involved in the supply chain. What that means practically I learned in 2011 when I did an internship at NY-based Samantha Pleet. I got introduced to dead stock fabrics as she used them a lot for her collections. New York fabric stores were incredible for this!
I then took a detour into full-time jobs in retail and buying after my studies, but I always missed creating something new. I found it pretty hard to find my right place in the industry, when back then, sustainability wasn’t such a big thing as it is today.
During the first lockdown as retail shops closed I wasn’t working much and felt already overwhelmed with the fashion world so I started creating again. As it was hard to access any sort of shops I asked my mum to send me leftover fabrics and old bed linens from her cabinets. I knew there would be some treasures as she used to reupholster chairs in the house. I created my first “stones” (that’s what I call my meditation cushions) out of those fabrics. The objects I’m creating feel much more natural to me than clothes. I make pants from time to time and there will be other fashion projects in the future, but creating objects def gives me the most joy!
Today I source different fabrics anywhere possible. I love discovering new textures, colours, and weaving techniques in an organic way – be it asking for remnants in random fabric stores, to stroll over flea markets or by opening parcels my brother sends me. He’s a big supporter from the beginning and whenever he hears of a curtain that is not in use anymore it’ll land in my studio a couple of days later.
TIDBTW: Where do you find inspiration?
JSR: I literally find inspiration everywhere: nature, daily life in Berlin, conversations with different people, architecture, art (expressionism, surrealism and fauvinism are my favorite art movements), reading (both fiction and non-fiction), philosophy (I guess in general how people saw and see the world), food (all those colours and flavours!), and so on :)
I guess my main inspiration are my friends and traveling by train in Europe. I love nature, its colours and seasons ever since being a scout and growing up in the countryside. Even though I love living in a city, I suppose “you can't take the country out of the girl.”
I find perfection suspicious (what’s there to hide?), so everything with a mark is interesting to me (asymmetry, stains, cracks, …). I remember the first time seeing the world from above was with my dad in a small aircraft over the Münsterland (I won this trip at a raffle at our local soapbox race) and I was fascinated with what I saw: all the straight lines that separated all these acres. It didn’t look organic, but still appealing in a way. Later on, I delved deeper into Max Weber's theories on how humans conquered nature, exploring the ramifications for humanity's development. This is why I refer to my patchwork hangings as "fields", a reflection of the complex interactions between society and the natural world:
Some inspirations from my recent trip to France:
TIDBTW: Does your profession affect your style or vice versa? Do you have a work uniform?
JSR: Good question! I definitely have a uniform, and I mostly opt for natural materials in my clothing choices. My color palette mostly consists of black, brown, navy, white, creme, beige, light blue and I've recently started incorporating grey, a color I avoided for years due to having grey hair since I was 19.
I don't necessarily dress differently while working in my studio, but I definitely choose the most comfortable clothes when working on large projects since I'm on the floor a lot, switching between different positions.
I mostly shop vintage garments or buy from independent and sustainable brands, when I have the budget. I don’t like to own too many clothes since I tend to wear the same pieces over and over again anyways. I do wear my own pants all the time, mostly with tops and shirts in summer and rollnecks in winter.
I am always wearing my jewelry: I got my ears heavily pierced when I was a teenager and I am still wearing little hoops, and sometimes I add charms from Santangelo or my favorite jewelry designer and good friend, Johanna Gauder.
My rings are also by Johanna and another talented friend, Kiki Dieterle. I often swap items with those two - they already have a good selection of bags and scrunchies! The chain ring is by Vibe Harslof and I gifted it to myself for my 30th birthday 7 years ago, I wear it every single day since.
TIDBTW: Because we are on vacation together, I am very curious if you dress differently or in a specific way when in a different country? How does France make you feel aesthetically? What is French style to you?
JSR: I’m very much into my uniform when I travel. I mostly wear the same, feeling comfortable is my priority. I’m also more chilled of how I look and don’t mind wearing the same white shirt for days even if its a bit stained.
I don’t really wear sneakers in my daily life, but I always pack them when on vacation, since I love hiking and lonely places so that’s pretty mandatory for me.
I'm drawn to relaxed styles, so I'm naturally drawn to Provençal aesthetics. The effortless elegance, relaxed silhouettes, and timeless appeal, combined with the use of natural materials like linens and soft cottons, are essential elements of my personal style.
THINGS YOU PACKED
TIDBTW: Can you show us a few things from your suitcase and describe your relationship with them? Why are they essential to your journey?
JSR: Firstly, it's a backpack - I've been traveling with the same one for 16 years now. It still functions perfectly, and I adore the idea of having my hands free. However, I can't shake the feeling that I should embrace adulthood soon and invest in a suitcase instead. Looks heavy, was heavy and never have my hands free anyways since I always find too much stuff while traveling…
Things I packed:
What I always pack are different versions of my Tüten since they work with everything in my wardrobe. This tiny Tüte is from deadstock Jil Sander fabric - a lightweight, semi-elastic fabric that only fringes better the more I wear it:
Grubenshirt: My family has a history in mining, and when one of the last two German coal mines closed in Ibbenbüren, close to where I grew up, I went down to the mine with my family. We had to wear special clothes, including this shirt. I've held onto it since then. My father used to wear these shirts while working in the mine, and I love the woven texture. There's something about it that feels very homely to wear. It's very oversized though, so I don't wear it regularly. Still, it's a piece close to my heart and somehow reminds me of French maritime clothing, so it works perfectly as a pajama top for my travels to France this time.
Pants: I have to admit that 90% of the times I’m wearing my own pants. I love the lightweight wool qualities and they fit perfectly since I tailored them to my shape ;) I make them from deadstock Jil Sander fabrics - the quantities are very limited.
Besides me there are a few friends who also have JSR pants, the newsletter authors mother in law included ;)
Editor’s note: It’s true, once she saw my JSR meditation stone she went RUNNING to Julia’s studio and bought not only a couple stones, but also the most gorgeous relaxing trousers. I’m jealous to this day!
Vest: just like everyone else I love layering and what’s better to layer with as a vest?! This one is from AKOG, fall winter 2023/24 and made from Steiff fabric - so literally a Steiff teddybear is keeping me warm and the colour goes well with everything in my wardrobe. I have a few AKOG pieces and I love every single one, the quality is great and of course it’s close to my heart since we’ve been working together for 5 years and it’s been fun being on this journey with them.
Editor’s note: If you love the idea of a vest for spring (or honestly, all year around) – how beautiful is this white AKOG one?
Shirts: apropos layering. In winter with turtlenecks underneath, in spring/summer on top of sleepless shirts. I think I finally found the perfect striped men’s shirts from Seidensticker via Vinted.
Editor’s note: I love this Seidensticker one too, also via Vinted:
THINGS YOU DIDNT BUY – BUT THINK OF
TIDBTW: Are there some clothes in your past that you didn’t buy, but still think about?
JSR: Lemaire bag and loafer: A regular thing I do when in Paris: to go to the Lemaire shop, carry the Egg bag and try on their slippers. Size 39, black. I’m doing this for years hopefully will get them this year :)
THINGS YOU BOUGHT AND WHY
TIDBTW: Maybe there are some overlaps with the travel packing - but can you name your highlight purchases of the last years?
JSR: Best purchase in 2023: my Patagonia backpack (Editor’s note: similar here). I use it almost every day as a tote for my daily life which is in between my studio, the store, the original feelings yoga studio and meeting friends. It’s also so perfect on travels since you can wear it as a backpack (you can hide the straps hehe) and there’s a reason why it’s called „black hole“.
Best purchase on this trip: a typical Provençal wicker basket. I met a friend in Marseille, and it was such a coincidence that she was there too. She got the same one and mentioned she couldn't believe I didn't have one yet, since it matches my style so well. So, voilà, always following my friends' style advice ;) I perpetually carry a lot of stuff with me, so I’m always in need of big bags.
I got a beautiful A Kind Of Guise coat last winter, it’s a great Austrian boiled wool quality, I wore it every single day from November til March. It makes me feel warm and protected:
I got the Fig Slippers below last spring, and I wore them a lot during the warmer seasons. The brand's aesthetics and values resonate with mine.
I love that they offer their own designs as well as other great objects in their market section. For example this knife from Pallarès, that one of my best friends gave me for my last birthday:
I've been carrying it around since and it’s been a great companion for my trip to France.
WISHLIST 2024
TIDBTW: Is there something on your wishlist for this year?
JSR: Both Lemaire pieces mentioned above!
TIDBTW: Thank you for sharing <3
JSR: THANK YOU KRISTINA 💛
*This interview has been proofread by Zsuzsanna Toth