Four Runways and No Funeral

I've got my money on Fall/Winter 24

Feb 11, 2024

I started Berlin Fashion Week by embracing the fact that it’s the first season in two years that I’m not working (as mid Elternzeit). That relaxing sentiment just got temporarily interrupted by my favourite suits embracing me, in the sense that they are still way too hugging for my well-being. The button would close but not in a nice way. I’m not going to shame the body that built a whole tiny human being not too long ago, but it left me bit disappointed. Fashionable comeback for BFW? Not really happening. But as my postpartum is no project plan, instead of sucking it in, I sucked it up and went for an outfit that actually makes me FEEL good:

This LITKOVSKA blazer got introduced to you in the last edit, although I kind of hid the most important detail, the seemingly unfinished inner seam and twisted collar. An instant mood boost every time I put it on. Trousers are wooly COS and I bought them two sizes up last fall, potentially having them slide down from waist to hip, one day, maybe. The shirt casually displaying my nursing bra is a silk thermo longsleeve, given to me for Christmas. Not sure if it was meant to be out and about, but this way it does serve a plain idea of hot (read: see-through). The bag is also LITKOVSKA, I love an open closure and the slight freak-outs it gives you whenever someone bumps into you (keys there? phone in? Lipstick?). Jewelry is all JOHANNA GAUDER, for good reason. I know this outfit would have fit dessert (all that really matters) at the opening dinner of Berlin Fashion Week, if that would have arrived before 1 AM, when I had to go home.

So how do you do Fashion Week when you don’t fit your old clothes yet and you can’t buy anything new? Right – you just treat your body to the same uniform as any other week. Which brings me to something I want to say to every person ever calling people out for wearing mainly monochrome colours, seemingly somber: just consider it their comfort zone. How amazing to have found that. And if there is one oxymoron it’s comfort zone and fashion week, in terms of style pressure. So to make it through this week, all the more it’s not the time for experiments, hold on tight to what makes you feel best. Which is what a lot of the runway looks I’ve seen can do for you. Welcome to my review of Things I didn’t buy in AW24 (yet), running you through my highlights of Berlin’s finest – monochromatic yet happy, most importantly coats and suits, my weak spot. Let’s get it!

Things I didn’t buy this week (but AW24 is near)

#1 MALAIKA RAISS

Designer Malaika Raiss welcomed us with a standing performance of how to wear her looks in everyday life, placing the models among guests, styled with vintage Levi’s and tinted sunnies, creating paparazzi kind of interactions:

MALAIKA RAISS let the models walk among the guests

Out of all the beautiful designs, of course I felt most drawn to this maroon suit. Oozing confidence in a calm way; who needs a shirt when these two pieces can do the whole job. I also love the pop of red and the choice of ballerina flats in contrast to the bold attitude.

Credit: MALAIKARAISS by James Cochrane for BFW

#2 RICHERT BEIL

Later that day, the runway moment that almost made me cry was directed by Jale Richert and Michele Beil of RICHERT BEIL, setting a new pace for both craftmanship and diversity in the Berlin fashion landscape:

This model was street-cast, as with most of the models, and I hope she felt as special as she looked. You SOLD me this look.

Do you want a coat, a dress, a coat, a dress in a coat? No need to prioritize. Here we are witnessing senior luxury and investing in this particular piece of their Nachlass collection might very well get you to still be wearing it when reaching this gorgeous lady’s age. Everything about this look breathes understated drama to me, this is as mermaid as a winter silhouette can be. If there is a line to pre-order this Arielle dream, you better get in there fast, it might be as crowded as the outside of this show.

Credit: RICHERT BEIL by James Cochrane for BFW

#3 BOBKOVA

This. Is. What. I. Am. Talking. About! When it comes to a black winter coat that lasts you for decades in terms of style and textile: floorsweeping length, both oversized shoulders and arms and a stunning reverse. If BOBKOVA AW24 is too far away, The Frankie Shop already has this double-breasted fit. I want to be the kind of person that buys two black coats by the end of this challenge and convinces you that it’s absolutely necessary.

The two other outfits that almost knocked me off my seat – dare I say I can see myself in the cast of the Ukrainian brand? Following this slightly narcissist thought, when I close my eyes and imagine a very refined version of myself on maternity leave, this could be it. I feel like I already own the trousers and then this must be the most deluxe form of a hoodie ever to grace my wishlist. The ruffled draping and loose fit? A must. I love the zipper and the mini cleavage it provides, sporty, chic, even suitable for breastfeeding. Also this is proof to how good of a pairing burgundy and black are. The added red lip and blue gloves are the epitome of luxury housekeeping to me - mop the floor and step out for dinner, the fashion gods shall be with you:

Credit: BOBKOVA by Boris Marberg for BFW

The final outfit on my high demand BOBKOVA list is giving cosy boss vibes: A déjà-vu of my new favorite, burgundy, and only someone truly gifted can craft something so nonchalant high-end as the knitted vest worn on top. How knock-out is that combo:

#4 AVENIR

My last day at BFW took me to AVENIR, a brand led by the idea that fashion can be in sync with the planet, using exclusively re- and upcycled material. Every outfit that designer Sophie Claussen and stylist Josepha Rodríguez guided through the set of mystical flower-adorned creatures, displayed how that vision can go hand in hand with refined design.

Again, suits are what I’m rooting for and this look does something particularly interesting, adding a trainy long top for extra flow and a scarf neckline, bringing clean lux to a traditional pattern. Obsessed! I love how the blazer can do with one button only, and its’ roomy fit. The volume of the leg is the cherry on top:

True to the show’s theme, this outfit made me sweat with excitement: This is what I expect from a winter suit, a texture that actually looks and keeps warm and stands for itself with prominent stitches along the arms and back. The peakaboo sleeves need no matching collar to converse with me – I can’t wait to try this on!

Next on, these grey trousers almost make me weep, they are so so good. I want this whole thing and I don’t care if it’s 4 pieces and one is a balaclava, I’m tapping out!!

In that sense, I’m wrapping this week’s shoutout with AVENIR’s closing look: the world is on fire and you’re lucky if it only burns your shirt.

Or your money, trying to decide between these promising AW24 looks. Now, we have until pre-order season to figure this one out friends! On that lighter note – have a lovely week, don’t buy anything stupid, or at least let me know what it was. xoxo