Don't work in fashion if you want to buy less
My new shopping rules for 2025
Hi dear TIDBTW, I so hope you are well. I missed talking to you! In the meantime I’ve been enjoying a little fall/winter forecast at Berlin Fashion Week. Meeting some new friends and old acquaintances, I realized once again that this get-together of our bubble never ceases to feel like a bumpy class trip. In other words: Fun.
Somewhat related to this, I’ve been thinking about the new shopping rules for TIDBTW a lot. Having tapped into 2025 for a good six weeks and with another season of BFW under my belt, I feel confident to say: rules are needed. Here is what I’ve come up with for myself and some general advice about how to make it happen (if you too want to buy less this year).
Avoid working in fashion
Duh. So if you must work in this industry, come prepared. I usually obviously don’t try on collections while I’m on the job, but this little ballet flat by Ukrainian brand Vikele Studio was testing my professional skills while co-hosting their showroom. I love that the cutout runs so high that it basically covers most of your foot (still have to try it on) and you can tell it is finest Italian leather and handmade even without holding it as long as I did. It’s been almost a week, it’s freezing and no spring is in sight, but yes, I’m still thinking about them. And they in fact might be a really great shoe for warmer days.
Next I found myself at the AVENIR runway show. I am OBSESSED with everything that Arthur painted in collaboration with the circular brand for their collection (find the Vogue Runway review here <3 ) - this scarf carries his print for example:
And how beautiful is this suit! I love the jewelry clasp closing the blazer, made by Studio Ena.
But I also have my eye on this particular coat, apologies for the bad quality, I was holding onto my son:
So beautiful and with the red!!! (For a better look, go here)
It only seems natural that I discovered great coats in the backstage area too. This one below belongs to and is worn by Anna Turnicova. She is the head and mind of jewelry brand PRUM and I love her way of accessorizing the collection with AVENIR in such a playful way by layering gemstones as belts and handles. So much to add to the wishlist! (See what’s happening here!?)
Avoid stylish people
They are the worst (see above)!! I know I praised the personal as in IRL influence in early January, and I still think that it is so much more beneficial and nurturing to actually meet you style crush than just scrolling through someone’s insta feed. But your fashionable friends can turn into pretty enablers (quoting
here), so you might want to challenge this.Before blindly buying into their looks: you do not need everything your cool friend wears. Funnily enough though, at this week’s cozy hangout at the Berlin Sézane shop (they still let me in, after I dismantled their trousers last year), we all left wearing the same denim. The reason? It matched all sizes, fits and potential outfit ideas. It was a bonding moment, beautifully curated by my dear stylist friend, Josepha Rodríguez. Would I have bought the jeans when on my own? No, simply because I wouldn’t have seen them. I don’t go into shops (see point 1, that’s enough stimulation already) to avoid the temptation. It was Josepha’s eye that brought the trousers to my attention and if you see this cute crowd, you get why it was nice to let yourself gently fall into this:
That being said, stylish people can happen to you intentionally or in the form of an amazing outfit you see on a random by-passer. Watch out! They are rare but at times come in groups (see fashion weeks) and through them is how I trip over beautiful things. Once locked in, it’s hard to unsee them. Luckily, this bag by Source By Port, spotted the same night on its radiant designer, Mimi Kara, is a sample and it will be a while until it’s out. Am I going to watch her space to see the launch unfold? Absolutely.
Sometimes it just feeds you well to embrace the moment and the style inspiration it brings. I advise you not to do the same if you want to consume less.
Beware of innovative, beautiful young brands
This week I was able to visit the press preview at Berliner Salon for BFW – an exhibition of the current best new german designers and their work – and it really really moved me. Set in a poetic conversation with the paintings at Gemäldegalerie and surrounded by tasteful tapestry, every look made so much sense. Also styled by Josepha! I absolutely loved Stefan Uhr, Yannic Pretzlaff and everything by the collective H6 - but the outfit that I keep coming back to is this rather grungy number by fashion student Marvin Muelleck:
It just proves that there is hope for sustainable (upcycling was a HUGE case for this selection of designers) and really unique and desirable design in Germany. So don’t go there if you don’t want to get invested, but also please definitely go there: Berliner Salon is open to public until February 23rd / 10am - 6 pm at Berliner Gemäldegalerie
Get something that serves you good
This is an old mantra, but it deserves to be repeated: buy what serves you for ages, so you don’t feel like you need to update all the time. Which is where me and my AVENIR denim set* are heading. After getting it in December, I wore it out for Fashion Week for the first time and for safety reasons I still have to fix the indigo color before incorporating it into my everyday outfit roll. But I can’t wait to style this combo throughout the whole year and for many occasions. Single article on how to wear this coming soon!
Don’t fall for the panic after a new purchase
The truth is, all commerce lulls you into the belief that the NEXT item will complete your closet, your universe, will solve all fashion faux-pas forever. Let me tell you, it won’t. Because new drops always create a feeling of scarcity and our eyes and heart are craving fresh impulses. Which is fine – but we can achieve the same highs with refined styling and smart wardrobe hacks.
Which is what I’m telling myself, because the worst that can happen is if you do buy something and you love it – and then you feel like you can’t make it work with your existing clothes. Shortly after being given these beautiful sandy jeans the other night, I struggled to find the right overcoat to step outside. Which is primarily a seasonal challenge. In my head everything came down to a long black coat as the best solution, which might indicate once again that it really is worth an investment in my case.
But my general point is: check if you can match the desired new purchase with your existing wardrobe before buying it. Don’t risk having to build and buy a whole new capsule collection around the one item you originally wanted. Even if that means leaving it in the store for another day or two and comparing notes in front of your closet. You’re fine. It will be fine. If you still want to buy it, find the things you can wear it with and then wear it a lot. Like I said before, the best buys are the ones you don’t want to take off for a week or so. (I’m wearing the tan denim as I’m writing this and maybe you notice the slight peeling on my shirt below, we are going strong)
In my case this means pairing the jeans with a medium length black coat that I already own instead of buying a new extra long one because I urgently feel like I need it. I can still enjoy my new trousers!
Still, I wish I had bought this gorgeous opulent black vintage coat back when I saw it in Oxford. I do know it’s not really my style, a tad too romantic, frilly and pretty. So the hunt for the overlong overcool black coat continues. I feel like I’m getting close! And then all my problems will be solved forever.
Shopping rules for 2025
Fashion circles and drops mean that we go in circles too. In our heads and our wardrobes and it can get very exhausting. To have some clarity, here are the new TIDBTW rules for 2025, slightly updated:
12 pieces are the max. I don’t think I’m my restrictive era any more. This is not about a special amount and instead I want to trust that I learned something from the past year and that I know what I need right now. Which can be the hardest thing. But I do believe that in general the number 12 per person and broadly 1 piece per month is a good indicator.
Last year’s number 5 was originally taken out of the report by the Hot or Cool Institute: “If no other actions are implemented, such as repairing/mending, washing at lower temperatures, or buying secondhand, purchases of new garments should be limited to an average five items a year for achieving consumption levels in line with the 1.5-degree target.” Let’s make an ament to take on all these efforts while putting 12 as the max and see where we land. (It still does feel a bit decadent ha)
Again everything counts (this doesn’t include undergarments or socks), secondhand, vintage, bags, jewerly - besides gifts! This is a tricky one for me because it feels like cheating, but it has brought too many confrontational moments for me in the past year. But we still have a saying with gifts – whether it is brands or friends, a polite No can be a sustainable choice, although it requires some diplomacy. I want to make conscious choices about everything that enters my personal wardrobe, so I will report to you about gifts too, of course.
Renting and borrowing are possible and not included
Wedding outfits are excluded, at least my own! Wedding guest, different story.
That’s all. I’m glad we talked it through, I can feel some relief that this is fixed. And I feel like the most interesting observation after a year of buying less is to see what you are naturally drawn to and if your fashion mind map has actually changed. I want to explore my free fashion will, within certain limitations.
12 things max in 2025, let’s go. Xoxo
*kindly gifted
Things I didn’t buy this week: 3+
3-5 pieces from the AVENIR AW25/26 show - prices TBC
Sézane trousers, as they were kindly gifted to me: Le wide leg in latte, 120,00 €
Marc and Miller sunglasses, kindly gifted: Model Tres with blue glasses, 150,00 €
Vikele Studios flats: not out yet, will be 280,00 €
12 seems like a great number to me. And I do find I need to limit my vintage purchases because this is where I can be the most consumptive actually.